Fishermen at work

It has been over a year since I was in Tharangambadi (read my earlier posts here) but I still have some great memories of the trip. 

Dansborg Fort with the fishing boats on the beach

One of my most persistent memories was of the fisher-folk who lived along the beach. In the early hours of the morning they would shove off their boats and return sometime mid-morning with whatever they had caught. The fish was then taken to the larger market towns like Karaikal where it would fetch a better price. 

I wonder what their lives must be like. Dependent on the benevolence of the sea, each day is uncertain. One day the sea can offer up a fabulous catch while another day a not so good one or maybe the weather will play spoil sport. Incidentally, this stretch of the coast was the main affected area in the 2004 tsunami. 

Old brick walls eroded by the sea or damaged
in the tsunami or maybe both

As I stood watching, these hardworking fisherfolk went about their work with single-minded focus. They had to make sure the fish reached the markets as soon as possible, especially on a warm, sunny day. They cheerfully answered my questions but conversing wasn't easy because of the language. In a couple of hours all the fish had been unloaded, sorted and carted away. Just a few men remained behind, tidying the nets for the next day's trip out. 

A closer view of the boats near the fort

Unloading the catch (of fish) from the boat

Fish all tangled up, waiting to be sorted

Bringing the boat in

Fishermen resting and mending the nets
in readiness for the next trip

My sojourn in Tranquebar was short but sweet. The tranquil sea and the soporific effect of waves washing against the shore might have enticed me to stay on longer. 

Besides the usual sight seeing, it's the little things like watching life go by, listening to the sounds of nature, the physical journey by road or train (by air, not so much!) which makes travelling so much more interesting and enriching. Don't you think?

Nature taking back its lost ground

Dansborg Fort - Tranquebar

The Dansborg Fort was built in 1620 AD in Tranquebar or Tharangambadi, the Land of the Singing Waves. It is supposed to be the second largest Danish fort after Kronberg (in Denmark and the inspiration for Shakespeare's castle in Hamlet). The fort has an impressive facade and overlooks the Bay of Bengal. It is remarkably well preserved, probably due to restoration work done to it in 2002 and 2011. 

Overlooking the Bay of Bengal

The fort was constructed mainly as a military base keeping in mind accomodation, kitchens, granaries, stables, freshwater wells, armoury and even a jail. It also has a set of rooms on the first floor which were used as the Governor's residence and also included administrative offices, a rectory, a church and guard rooms. The Governor later moved home to a larger, smarter bungalow located opposite the fort. Today, one portion of the fort's upper storey houses a museum with some interesting artefacts from those times. 

Artefacts in the museum

Various sections on the ground floor

There is also a tunnel which has partially collapsed and is not usable anymore. According to the official version it supposedly leads from the inside of the fort to the Uppannar river about 300m away. It was possibly meant to be a quick getaway incase the fort was taken over by hostile forces. But local tales say the tunnel leads all the way to Tanjavur, about a 100Kms away. :) The authorities have blocked the way due to the fear of further cave-ins and resident snakes and other creatures. 

The fort is not as large or embellished as some of the Mughal or Rajput ones scattered across India. But it is impressive and reassuring in its solidity. Having survived the last 400 years including the 2004 tsunami, the Dansborg Fort continues to look out across the Bay of Bengal while keeping a watch over the town. 

Another relic preserved from the past

Note: From what I can remember, the fort is open to the public from 10AM to 5PM on all days except Friday.