Showing posts with label temple. Show all posts
Showing posts with label temple. Show all posts

Friday, September 4, 2015

West Lake & its environs

I am in a 'retro' mood and plan to post a few from my previous trips. In a way, I'll also be closing my series on Vietnam and my North East India travels. Here, I'm continuing with my travel through Hanoi. 

Hồ Tây as the West Lake is known in Vietnamese is semi-circular and has a long, long... shoreline (Wikipedia reports it as 17 Km). It's the largest among the many lakes that dot the city. It has neat promenades and recreational centres along its banks, making it a popular place for the residents to unwind and relax. 


The West Lake's boundaries
(credit: Google Maps)

Further shores of the lake

People relaxing along the promenade

'Swans' resting at the recreational centre

The West Lake's banks are also home to two very significant places of worship. 

The Quán Thánh temple is one of the four sacred temples built at the four corners of the old city to protect it from malevolent spirits. Quán Thánh protects the northern borders. Today, Hanoi has outgrown those borders and the temples have been absorbed by this ever expanding city. 


The picturesque entrance to the temple

Beautiful idols of holy animal symbols

Incense offerings to the deity

Antique wall murals on the sides of the main building

The main deity (top) & other altars within
Quán Thánh was built in the 11th century and is dedicated to the Taoist deity of the North. 


Artefacts & ancient bonsai

A smaller shrine within the premises

The entrance from the inside

Trấn Quốc Pagoda is dedicated to Buddhism and is said to have been built in the 6th century. It was originally built on the banks of the Red river but when the river changed course and threatened to flood it, the pagoda was shifted to the banks of the lake. It lies on off a small strip of land that separates the larger lake body from the smaller one. 


The pagoda as seen from the causeway

The Trấn Quốc Pagoda is defined by the tall red tower which is built in tiers. Each tier has tiny alcoves with white statues of the Buddha in them. All around it are smaller shrines. This is a living pagoda where monks continue to reside and pray. 


The beautiful gateway to the pagoda complex

The red tower seen amongst the
smaller shrines


Courtyard in front of the main building

One of the shrines inside

Other ornate altars inside the main building

One of the altars had lots of photos pasted on a wooden board with offerings placed in front. I am not entirely sure, but it seemed to be an altar for ancestor worship which the Vietnamese believe in. Earlier, tablets represented each ancestor but now it seems technology has replaced them with photographs. 


Altar for ancestor worship (I think)

Interestingly, there are two familiar sights from back home in this complex - magnificient peepal trees! One inside and one just in front of the entrance. The one inside has grown from a branch taken from the original Bodhi tree in Bodhgaya, Bihar. It was gifted in 1959 by the then President of India, Dr. Rajendra Prasad. The one outside the entrance is an offshoot of the gift. A gift that keeps on growing. ;) Pun intended. 


The Bodhi (peepal) tree in the courtyard

Interesting features in the pagoda

The West Lake too has many small parks in its vicinity. I've mentioned two notable ones here, in my opinion, mainly because of the imagery they contained. One park is the memorial to soldiers of the Vietnamese army that fought in the 1940's. The other is a memorial to the anti-French revolutionary, Lý Tự Trọng, executed when he was 17 years old for assaulting French officials. The images are larger than life and strangely awe-inspiring in their proportions. 

Maybe, that was the intent of the creators. 



Memorial to Vietnamese revolutionaries

Memorial to the teenage martyr

Hồ Tây, one of the pleasanter areas of the bustling capital city and where I enjoyed spending some quiet moments. 

Tuesday, April 21, 2015

Temple bells

Bells in temples, especially Hindu, shouldn't be a surprise. But have you ever seen a temple covered in bells? So much so that you can't see the original structure of the temple. It's as if the bells are the building materials of the temple. 

I lived in the temple's neighbourhood for years and had no idea it even existed. After I moved out, I came across some info on the world wide web which mentioned the temple. It seemed such an interesting place that I had to visit it when I was in the area next.


bell hanuman temple khar mumbai

I usually visit places of worship when they are of interest architecturally or visually or have some curious folklore surrounding it. The bell temple fell into the latter category. I was there on a Saturday and found that it was one of the main days for worship. The place was crowded and since the temple borders a park which forms a junction of several roads, it was a bit chaotic. 

The temple is officially known as the 'Sri Hanuman Ghanteshwar Mandir' and is located at Madhu Park, Khar (W), Mumbai. It's dedicated to Hanuman, the Monkey God from Hinduism. I am not sure of the origins of the temple but the lore surrounding it is that you have to pray for your heart's desire. When (and not 'if') the wish is fulfilled, you must go back and tie a bell. The belief in the deity can be seen from the numerous bells that literally cover the entire structure of the temple. 


bell hanuman temple khar mumbai

bell hanuman temple khar mumbai

bell hanuman temple khar mumbai

Due to all the crowd and traffic, I had to take photos from across the road. Photography is not allowed (I wonder why?) and there are sign boards informing you of the same. But I hadn't noticed these signs until I started clicking pictures and a security guard came running to shoo me away. The photographs are not particularly great but hopefully it'll suffice to give you an idea of what I saw. 

Friday, March 13, 2015

Sword handling turtles

Ho Hoan Kiem is a picturesque lake located near the shopping district of Ha Noi. It has a very interesting legend behind it. 

Emperor Lê Lợi who ruled Vietnam in the 13th century was said to have a very powerful and magical sword which was given to him by one of the Gods to fight the Chinese Ming dynasty. One day when the emperor was boating on the lake, a giant turtle rose up and took the sword away from him. Searching for both turtle and sword proved futile. Emperor Lê Lợi  was convinced that the sword had returned to the Gods. The water body was then renamed Ho Hoan Kiem i.e. Lake of the Returned Sword. 

In the midst of the lake is a structure very European in architecture. It's origins are strange but today it's known as Thap Rua i.e. Turtle/ Tortoise Tower in honour of the turtle in the legend. The tower has probably stood the test of time as no one is allowed on it except for maintenance purposes.


The Turtle Tower standing like a silent sentinel
in the midst of the lake
A species of soft-shelled turtles are inhabitants of the lake though they are sighted very rarely. People gaze into the waters hoping to catch sight of the sacred ones which is considered incredible good fortune. I did too but it wasn't to be my lucky day.

On another island closer to the shore is a temple reached by a red wooden bridge. The Ngoc Son Temple (The Temple of the Jade Mountain) has been dedicated to various figures since it was built but today it is dedicated to three figures - a 13th century Vietnamese military general, a Confucian master and a literary figure. 

The temple has three gates before the bridge and a fourth one after crossing the bridge. The gates have auspicious letterings, signs and symbols on them. 



Gates 1 & 2 of the temple

Gate 3: The top & side panels with auspicious
sculptures & messages on it 
Gate 3: the other side, facing the temple
Inside the shrine besides the altar and offerings to it, there are many interesting artefacts - ancient weapons, sculptures of auspicious birds & animals, intricately shaped bells, huge porcelain vases and decorative flowers. 




Large bells with intricate forms on it
Worship continues here to this day
In a chamber to one side of the main shrine, there is a glass encased body of a giant tortoise that used to live in the lake. The description next to it says it was preserved in 1968. The tortoise then weighed 200 Kgs, it was 2m in length and 1.2m in width. Wow!



A view of the lake from the temple premises
Hoan Kiem has pretty landscaping, walkways and park benches around it making it an a hub for people to rest, relax and enjoy quality time with family and friends. Even late into the night, the area is a buzzing with life. Somewhat akin to Marine Drive in Mumbai or India Gate in Delhi (minus the persistent hawkers). 


A quaint souvenir store outside the temple that seemed
to blend into the temple environs.

A view of the bridge to the temple
Night-time view of the lake. Visible is the red bridge
and in the distance the lit-up Turtle Tower
A detailed description of the Ngoc Son Temple can be found here. 

The Vietnamese have dedicated the same temples to different saints and prominent figures over time which I found quite complicated to follow. Ngoc Son itself has been the site of various dedications, this avatar is its fourth.

Thanks to this trip to Hanoi, I also realised there is a difference between a temple (Den in Vietnamese) and a Pagoda. The former can be a community place of worship or dedicated to special people - holy monks, ancestors, national heroes etc. while the latter is Buddhist and dedicated to the Buddha(s).